Matohu RTW Fall 2023

For their first live presentation in three and a half years, Makiko Sekiguchi and Hiroyuki Horihata opted for a mixed media event that combined a short film on the making of their collection with a runway show of the clothes themselves.

Having spent many seasons seeking out, learning about, and utilizing traditional Japanese craft skills in their collections, this time the designers turned to the historic city of Matsue in Shimane prefecture, where they sought out a “world of sympathetic vibrations.” Two relatively modern influences that they found and incorporated into their designs were the Japanese folk art movement and the writings of Lafcadio Hearn, a Greek immigrant who became a Japanese citizen in the 1890s.

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Sekiguchi and Horihata turned to a local kiln and pottery studio to produce original ceramic buttons for their collection, and the pattern of these painstakingly handmade details was reflected in their textile design as well. Softly etched diagonal lines became subtle herringbone patterns, complemented by natural motifs of leaves and colors that reflected rippling waters, new plant growth and sunsets. As far as shapes go, the designers stayed firmly in their wheelhouse, turning out loosely tailored, relaxed yet elegant shirts, trousers and long coats.

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