Hyke RTW Fall 2023

Design duo Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara put their signature spin on modern femininity by incorporating elements from traditional menswear and vintage military pieces into their fall collection. They opened their digital show with a series of all-black looks, including a wide-ribbed jumpsuit with flared pant legs, which created a beautiful silhouette on the body when in movement. They paired the piece with a hip-length tailored vest for a professional look.

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Among their neutral tones of solid black, khaki, olive, white and tan, they mixed in two versions of bold checked prints. A tight version of gingham in black and white resembled polka dots from a distance, while a much larger, more open check gave graphic detail to softly draped, ankle-length dresses. Faux shearling made several appearances, as vests, on shoes and as the lining of bags whose open weave mimicked the gingham print.

Inspired by vintage outdoor sporting wear, pops of color came from deep emeralds and a vibrant red, which Ode said is one of her favorite colors. “I’ve loved red since I was a child. I would love to use it every season, but this was the first time in a while that we’ve used it in a collection,” she said.

Echoing the wide ribs that opened the show, another theme was box pleats, which were used to create long dresses and wide-legged trousers with adjustable bands around the thighs. Another creative silhouette was a Nordic sweater with frills at the armholes, a fresh, softer take on the classic ’80s power shoulder.

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