“Quiet luxury” doesn’t need to be boring. The studied work of Japanese designer Ryota Iwai speaks volumes with his soft, elegant fabrics that elevate essential items to new heights for his latest Auralee collection.
Working with pin-thin mohair, wool and tweed in summer weights, Iwai transformed basics such as button-downs, T-shirts, crewneck sweaters, blazers, loose-fit trousers and slipdresses. He distinguished each look with smart details — a tank pulled to the waist that doubles as a belt, a suit jacket casually pulled through a handbag, or a cardigan tied around the neck that serves as a scarf.
Styling is where he started from this season, looking at how individuals express themselves with simple tweaks and gestures.
Nearly transparent garments were layered to play with texture, and Iwai used colorblocking more this season. His traditional neutrals were spiked with touches of bright cerulean blue, and moss green. A vermillion column over trousers remained casual cool when paired with a white handbag, and an airy seafoam parka lightened a dark pant-and-pullover combo.
Iwai’s tailoring was turned inside out on coats and trousers, with silk linings exposed for a soft touch on outerwear, and he also worked in crinkled cotton to keep suits from moving toward office territory.
Auralee set the stage street level. Models walked through a tree garden and under the vaulted arches of a ’60s former government tower block that has been revamped into the SO Hotel. The contrast between nature and the once-futuristic architecture made for a strikingly simple backdrop that worked in harmony with the clothes.
Iwai ran through the lineup three times at hourly intervals so as not to overcrowd the seats at showtime. The setting and pace supported his point. What is modern luxury if not space, time and a relaxed breath of fresh air?
